BAMAKO
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would expect the capital city of one of the poorest countries in the world
to be slow and down-at-heel, but Bamako is a cacophony of music, motorbikes,
and people buying, selling and trading under the hot midday sun. Despite its
problems it has character. Unfortunately the colonial-style Grand Marché
Market burnt down in 1993. It is due to be rebuilt but until such time, the
stall holders are simply conducting business alfresco on the pavements and
side streets around the old site. This greatly increases the chances of
getting lost, as all the streets look the same after some time, but you can
find everything here from indigo cloth to gold to tapes of African music.
There's also a traditional medicine vendor, should you find yourself running
short of travel essentials such as porcupine quills, dried birds and monkey
heads. The Musée National is one of the best ethnographic museums in West
Africa with architectural features inspired by the old-mud brick structures
in Djenneé.It displays a wide range of tapestries, masks, funeral objects,
and weapons. The museum is desperately trying to hold onto its cultural
treasures but is fighting an üphill battle against collectors illegally
buying ancient terracotta figurines in Djenneé for next to nothing. Don't
buy into this cultural devaluation: save your francs for the legal stuff.
Bamako is on the north bank of the Niger. The core of the city centre, where
you'll find the main markets, shops, restaurants, and some hotels, is in a
triangle formed by the Ave du Fleuve, Blvd du Peuple and Ave van Vollenhoven.
The Grand Marché (or rather what once used to be the Grand Marché) is in the
centre of this triangle.
THE NIGER RIVER ROUTE
The Niger River is the life line of Mali, entering at the southern end of
the country and running into the interior as far as Gao before doing a sharp
right turn and flowing back towards the ocean. Boats ply up and down the
river between August and November and it is one of the best ways to see the
interior of the country. Most travellers find the journey fascinating, and
it gives them a chance to experience the hurly-burly of port life along the
river. Conditions on board tend to vary: at best it's still not quite
shuffleboard and margaritas aboard the Love Boat. At worst it's a floating
hellhole with sweltering cabins, dirty toilets, food shortages and cargo
spread everywhere, with the occasional grounding on sandbanks as an extra.
MOPTI
Mopti, lying on an inland delta, is one of the biggest cities along the
Niger with one of the most vibrant ports and a large bustling market. It's
also the centre of the local tourist industry and suffers from hard-sell
overload. Travellers have reported being mercilessly harangued by local
youths offering themselves as guides, or trying to off-load postcards and
souvenirs and refusing to take no for an answer. Some of these entrepreneurs
are not averse to a little bit of free enterprise so watch out for the scams
that end up with you being parted from your money. Before Mopti is the
junction town of San, which is quieter than the other places but has a
traditional ambience that other towns seem to have lost. Gao is the last
stop before the Niger bums and heads back to the ocean. It's well and truly
in the Sahel and is extremely hot, but has a picturesque market place,
stunning sunsets and the Tomb of the Askia (a 16th century ruler), now used
as a mosque.Boats run from Koulikoro, 60km (37mi) east of Bamako, to the
interior city of Gao, 925km (573mi) northeast of Bamako. Journeys may be
anything from one day to a week long. In theory a boat leaves Koulikoro
every Tuesday and arrives in Gao the following Monday stopping en route at a
number of towns. The return journey begins in Gao every Thursday and arrives
at Koulikoro a week later.
FALAISE DE BANDIAGARA
A hiking trek to the Dogon country, travelling the length of the Falaise de
Bandiagara or Bandiagara Escarpment, is likely to be the highlight of any
visit to Mali. The Dogon have a complex and elaborate culture and are well
known for their art work. The treks are a great way to get a first hand look
at the pink sandstone houses and granaries carved out of the cliff face, and
to gather tips on gardening in very small spaces. The Dogon grow their crops
in small plots on cliff ledges. If you are there in April you can see the
spectacular five-day Fête des Masques which is the Dogon's major festival
and involves liberal amounts of both dancing and millet beer. The other
regular event in Dogon life is market day, occuring every five days. These
are lively affairs that don't get into full swing until around noon and are
usually greased with a joke-telling session, some local gossip, and the
ubiquitous millet beer. The Bandiagara Escarpment is 135km (84mi) long and
runs from Douentza in the north to near Bankas in the south. Bandiagara,
Bankas and Sanga are all Popular starting-points for hikers. Bandiagara and
Bankas are both about 550km (340mi) northeast of Bamako, while Sanga is
about another 40km (25mi) further north. To get to these starting points
take a plane, bus or boat from Bamako to Mopti and from Mopti a mini bus or
bush taxi.
EVENTS
The most captivating event on the Mali calendar is the crossing of the
cattle at Diafarabé. Every year in the month of December, in a tradition
that goes back 160 years, Diafarabé gears up to cope with a sudden influx of
cattle and herders as they converge on the river bank. This is a time for
celebrations and festivities as herders are reunited with friends and family
after several long months in the desert.
Local chiefs and elders meet before the big event and the order of the
crossing is decided by the processes of fair play and democracy. The cattle
are then led to the grass that is (both proverbially and literally) greener
on the other side.
The Dogons are famous for their masks and during the five-day Fête des
Masques in April, many of them are used in ritual ceremonies that go back
more than 1000 years.
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Peul girls, Northern Bandiagara Escarpmenti
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